commit 7ada904a956bf2113cc541f445381db68ef41ed0
parent 85fe34b8da6e8be47ce589e6cb0c1136a0f21f61
Author: rob <rob@tarina.org>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 12:05:19 +0200
better manual
Diffstat:
3 files changed, 55 insertions(+), 59 deletions(-)
diff --git a/docs/tarina-manual.html b/docs/tarina-manual.html
@@ -1,36 +1,37 @@
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-<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="" xml:lang="">
<head>
- <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" />
- <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+ <meta charset="utf-8" />
<meta name="generator" content="pandoc" />
+ <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=yes" />
<meta name="keywords" content="Camera, 3d Printed, Filmmaker, Raspberry pi" />
<title>Tarina – Tarina Manual</title>
- <style type="text/css">code{white-space: pre;}</style>
- <link rel="stylesheet" href="style.css" type="text/css" />
+ <style type="text/css">
+ code{white-space: pre-wrap;}
+ span.smallcaps{font-variant: small-caps;}
+ span.underline{text-decoration: underline;}
+ div.column{display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 50%;}
+ </style>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="style.css" />
</head>
<body>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="tarina-logo.png" />
-
-</div>
+<p><img src="tarina-logo.png" /></p>
<p><br></p>
<h1 id="manual">MANUAL</h1>
-<p>This is still a work in progress and documentation is on its way, if you're in a hurry feel free to drop a message in <a href="https://riot.im/app/#/room/#tarina:matrix.tarina.org">#tarina:matrix.tarina.org</a></p>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="tarina-filming-01.jpg" alt="Filming with Tarina" />
-<p class="caption">Filming with Tarina</p>
-</div>
+<p>This is still a work in progress and documentation is on its way, if you’re in a hurry feel free to drop a message in <a href="https://riot.im/app/#/room/#tarina:matrix.tarina.org">#tarina:matrix.tarina.org</a></p>
+<figure>
+<img src="tarina-filming-01.jpg" alt="Filming with Tarina" /><figcaption>Filming with Tarina</figcaption>
+</figure>
<h2 id="contents">Contents</h2>
<h3 id="the-interface">The interface</h3>
-<ol style="list-style-type: decimal">
+<ol type="1">
<li><a href="#introduction">Introduction</a></li>
<li><a href="#keys">Keys</a></li>
<li><a href="#menus">Menus</a></li>
<li><a href="#faq">Faq</a></li>
</ol>
<h3 id="building-repairing-modding">[Building, repairing & modding]</h3>
-<ol style="list-style-type: decimal">
+<ol type="1">
<li><a href="#get-the-parts">Get the parts</a></li>
<li><a href="#3d-printing">3d printing</a></li>
<li><a href="#post-processing">Post processing</a></li>
@@ -40,24 +41,21 @@
<li><a href="#tested-lenses">Tested lenses</a></li>
</ol>
<h1 id="introduction">Introduction</h1>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="tarina-filming-02.jpg" alt="Tarina UI" />
-<p class="caption">Tarina UI</p>
-</div>
+<figure>
+<img src="tarina-filming-02.jpg" alt="Tarina UI" /><figcaption>Tarina UI</figcaption>
+</figure>
<p>The interface focuses on presenting the essential tools in film making in one menu that is present and accessible all the time. You can control it with a keyboard or with the physical buttons; Enter, Up, Down, Left, Right, Record, Retake, View and Remove.</p>
<h2 id="retake-function">Retake function</h2>
-<p>After recording a take you'll see an image of the last frame of that take. Now, if you hit record again you'll move to the next shot in your movie. If you press retake you'll be going to a new take of the same shot in your movie. Now, your back at the live view and next time you'll hit record it will actually record. So, if you're browsing shots and a frame is present instead of the live view, hitting record will take you to the next new shot in your movie. When live view is present it will always start recording. So record and retake are multi functional buttons.</p>
+<p>After recording a take you’ll see an image of the last frame of that take. Now, if you hit record again you’ll move to the next shot in your movie. If you press retake you’ll move to a new take of the same shot in your movie. Now, the live view is back and next time you’ll hit record it will actually start recording. So, if you’re browsing shots and a frame is present instead of the live view, hitting record will take you to the next new shot in your movie. Makes perfectly sense, right? When live view is present it will always start recording. So record and retake are multi functional buttons in that sense. Fiddle around with it, you’ll totally get it and be blown away how simple it is.</p>
<h1 id="keys">Keys</h1>
<h3 id="buttons">Buttons</h3>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="buttons.png" alt="Buttons" />
-<p class="caption">Buttons</p>
-</div>
+<figure>
+<img src="buttons.png" alt="Buttons" /><figcaption>Buttons</figcaption>
+</figure>
<h3 id="keyboard">Keyboard</h3>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="keyboard.jpg" alt="Buttons" />
-<p class="caption">Buttons</p>
-</div>
+<figure>
+<img src="keyboard.jpg" alt="Buttons" /><figcaption>Buttons</figcaption>
+</figure>
<p>With keys up and down you change a specific setting, for example shutter speed. With keys left and right you change what settings to change. With view, you can view the last shot or if you have a specific scene highlighted the camera would automatically glue all shots together and play that scene for you, same goes for film. With remove you can remove a specific take, shot, scene or film. With the retake button you retake a bad take, this is how the camera keeps track of your good takes. The last take is always the chosen one.</p>
<p>Special keys on the keyboard (CAPITAL):</p>
<p>Y = Copy scene/shot</p>
@@ -70,38 +68,37 @@
<h1 id="menus">Menus</h1>
<p>A short explanation of all the settings and why they are where they are.</p>
<h3 id="film-scene-shot-and-take">Film, scene, shot and take</h3>
-<p>This you don't see on other cameras because they don't care about what you're filming however this camera does and it wants to know where you are in your filmmaking process and help put it together. Of course this means that <strong><em>you</em></strong> have to know where you are in your filmmaking process. The idea of the workflow is: film only the essentials, check your montage on the spot and do a retake if you need to fix something rather than filming a bunch of things and fixing it later on another device. This will save <strong><em>you</em></strong> alot of time.</p>
+<p>This you don’t see on other cameras because they don’t care about what you’re filming, however this camera does and it wants to know where you are in your filmmaking process and help put it together. Of course this means that <strong><em>you</em></strong> have to know where you are in your filmmaking process. The idea of the workflow is: film only the essentials, check your montage on the spot and do a retake if you need to fix something rather than filming a bunch of things and fixing it later on another device. This will save <strong><em>you</em></strong> alot of time.</p>
<h3 id="dubbing">Dubbing</h3>
-<p>If you press enter while you've highlighted the film name or a scene you'll be entering dub settings menu. (ADD:d:1.0/o:1.0) this indicates the volume of the (d)ub to the previous (o)riginal mix. So, for example if you want the dub volume to be 50% of the previous audio, the settings would look like this (ADD:d:0.5/o:1.0). A good all-around background music volume level is only 10% so it would look like this (ADD:d:0.1/o:1.0). The other setting is fade in and out in seconds (in: 0.5) (out: 1.0) whould be half a second in and a second out. Now if you press enter while the ADD is highlighted you'll be dubbing. You can change the settings later if you come back to the menu. You can add up to 99 tracks!</p>
+<p>If you press enter while you’ve highlighted the film name or a scene you’ll be entering dub settings menu. (ADD:d:1.0/o:1.0) this indicates the volume of the (d)ub to the previous (o)riginal mix. So, for example if you want the dub volume to be 50% of the previous audio, the settings would look like this (ADD:d:0.5/o:1.0). A good all-around background music volume level is only 10% so it would look like this (ADD:d:0.1/o:1.0). The other setting is fade in and out in seconds (in: 0.5) (out: 1.0) whould be half a second in and a second out. Now if you press enter while the ADD is highlighted you’ll be dubbing. You can change the settings later if you come back to the menu. You can add up to 99 tracks!</p>
<h3 id="shutter-iso-red-blue">Shutter, iso, red, blue</h3>
-<p>Shutter and iso are well know basic camera concepts. With red and blue you control the colors. If you press enter while on any of these then it will go into auto mode and if you press it again it will go back to manual mode with the current auto settings. I'm using this feature to quickly find a reasonable good value before I'm locking and tuning the settings manually to my likings. Cuz you always will know better than the robots!</p>
+<p>Shutter and iso are well know basic camera concepts. With red and blue you control the colors. If you press enter while on any of these then it will go into auto mode and if you press it again it will go back to manual mode with the current auto settings. I’m using this feature to quickly find a reasonable good value before I’m locking and tuning the settings manually to my likings. Cuz you always will know better than the robots!</p>
<h3 id="bright-cont-sat">Bright, cont, sat</h3>
-<p>Color grade on the go with brightness, contrast and saturation. You will probably have to play with theses to figure out what you want. Remember that as you're making your film ready while you're shooting it take by take, there's no color grading later on so you'll have to settle on your color grade before you film. To get that good old spaghetti western look go with the contrast at -19.</p>
+<p>Color grade on the go with brightness, contrast and saturation. You will probably have to play with theses to figure out what you want. Remember that as you’re making your film ready while you’re shooting it take by take, there’s no color grading later on so you’ll have to settle on your color grade before you film. To get that good old spaghetti western look go with the contrast at -19.</p>
<h3 id="flip-beep-lenght">Flip, beep, lenght</h3>
-<p>If you go gonzo, flippin it is the way to go! beep is a countdown timer from the moment you press rec or retake to when it actually starts filming. Lenght let's you put in the lenght of your take before you actually start filming. Both of these are very useful if you film action alone and can't reach for the buttons.</p>
+<p>If you go gonzo, flippin it is the way to go! beep is a countdown timer from the moment you press rec or retake to when it actually starts filming. Lenght let’s you put in the lenght of your take before you actually start filming. Both of these are very useful if you film action alone and can’t reach for the buttons.</p>
<h3 id="mic-phones-comp">Mic, phones, comp</h3>
-<p>Control teh level of your mic and headphones. Comp is a basic compressor to get really get your message across we need to hear ya so it's quite harsh as of the moment im writing this manual. But I like it when it goes craking up abit like in the good old 70s cinema.</p>
+<p>Control teh level of your mic and headphones. Comp is a basic compressor to get really get your message across we need to hear ya so it’s quite harsh as of the moment im writing this manual. But I like it when it goes craking up abit like in the good old 70s cinema.</p>
<h3 id="timelapse">Timelapse</h3>
-<p>Do a timelapse when you need to tell about time. There's an undermenu here where you can choose the intervall of the takes, now this isn't really a traditional timelapse with pictures it will instead do a 0.1 sec video at each intervall or it can be set to your likings but 0.1 is good for a traditional timelapse effect. At the bottom of the screen is a calculation of how long the clip will be if you do the timelapse for an hour. I'd say don't over do it a 10 - 20 clip is already quite a stretch but its up to you, you're the director.</p>
+<p>Do a timelapse when you need to tell about time. There’s an undermenu here where you can choose the intervall of the takes, now this isn’t really a traditional timelapse with pictures it will instead do a 0.1 sec video at each intervall or it can be set to your likings but 0.1 is good for a traditional timelapse effect. At the bottom of the screen is a calculation of how long the clip will be if you do the timelapse for an hour. I’d say don’t over do it a 10 - 20 clip is already quite a stretch but its up to you, you’re the director.</p>
<h3 id="lens">Lens</h3>
<p>A future implementation of lens shade correction will come where you get to do your own lens corrections to get those colors right on the spot.</p>
<h3 id="dsk-shutdown-srv-wifi">Dsk, shutdown, srv, wifi</h3>
-<p>Disk space, showing you how much of space left on your sd card. Shutdown when your done. Srv is a network server, if your connected to a network and put this on you should be able to go to any browser on any device and watch your movie films if you've rendered them first, just go to http://tarina.local. If you press enter on wifi you will be transported to a glorious program called Wicd curses, here you really need to have a keyboard to set up your connections. Hints are down on the screen what buttons to press.</p>
+<p>Disk space, showing you how much of space left on your sd card. Shutdown when your done. Srv is a network server, if your connected to a network and put this on you should be able to go to any browser on any device and watch your movie films if you’ve rendered them first, just go to http://tarina.local. If you press enter on wifi you will be transported to a glorious program called Wicd curses, here you really need to have a keyboard to set up your connections. Hints are down on the screen what buttons to press.</p>
<h3 id="update-and-upload">Update and upload</h3>
-<p>Update the camera to the most exclusive version, this is still pretty much a-work-in-progress and as a warnign expect some bugs. But don't worry I'll be improving things but it takes time. Upload your film to the web, there is a youtube uploader mod you can install but you'll have to do some configs to make it work for you. Details in the mods directory.</p>
+<p>Update the camera to the most exclusive version, this is still pretty much a-work-in-progress and as a warnign expect some bugs. But don’t worry I’ll be improving things but it takes time. Upload your film to the web, there is a youtube uploader mod you can install but you’ll have to do some configs to make it work for you. Details in the mods directory.</p>
<h3 id="backup">Backup</h3>
-<p>It's good to always backup your stuff! Plug in your usb drive and just press enter and sit back and relax as the wonderful work of computer copying does the magic. While your at it open a beer cuz it can take quite a while if you got much stuff on there. Now, this should be working on almost all hard drives but there are some that still use a very old file system called fat, and its as lazy as its given name and doesnt store critical information we would want, because we want the copying to only copy our new takes or retakes. So please use new drives like ntfs systems or ext or whatever they all are called. You'll find all you takes even the shitty ones on your harddrive in a directory called /tarinafilms/. One more thing, there are some drives that are very powerhungry and doesnt come with it's own power source, now these drives are very bad for this particular use because the Tarina has limited amounts of power for usb use, so to be sure it's gonna work, use a powered hard drives with its own power cord.</p>
+<p>It’s good to always backup your stuff! Plug in your usb drive and just press enter and sit back and relax as the wonderful work of computer copying does the magic. While your at it open a beer cuz it can take quite a while if you got much stuff on there. Now, this should be working on almost all hard drives but there are some that still use a very old file system called fat, and its as lazy as its given name and doesnt store critical information we would want, because we want the copying to only copy our new takes or retakes. So please use new drives like ntfs systems or ext or whatever they all are called. You’ll find all you takes even the shitty ones on your harddrive in a directory called /tarinafilms/. One more thing, there are some drives that are very powerhungry and doesnt come with it’s own power source, now these drives are very bad for this particular use because the Tarina has limited amounts of power for usb use, so to be sure it’s gonna work, use a powered hard drives with its own power cord.</p>
<h3 id="load-and-new">Load and new</h3>
<p>You can have many on going films, load em up or start as many films as you like.</p>
<h3 id="features-to-come">Features to come</h3>
-<p>Now I've already talked about some features that'll be implemented but three very important ones that you can expect in the near future are Yank(copy), Insert and Move.</p>
+<p>Now I’ve already talked about some features that’ll be implemented but three very important ones that you can expect in the near future are Yank(copy), Insert and Move.</p>
<hr />
<h1 id="building-repairing-and-modding">Building, repairing and modding</h1>
<h2 id="get-the-parts">Get the parts</h2>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="tarina-build.jpg" alt="Tarina parts layed out" />
-<p class="caption">Tarina parts layed out</p>
-</div>
+<figure>
+<img src="tarina-build.jpg" alt="Tarina parts layed out" /><figcaption>Tarina parts layed out</figcaption>
+</figure>
<p>Here is a list of parts that will work, there are other parts that probably will work but this is what I recommend.</p>
<h2 id="raspberry-pi-3-b">Raspberry pi 3 B</h2>
<p>Price ~30 eur</p>
@@ -206,12 +203,12 @@
<p><strong>Buy</strong> <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1-Piece-Short-0-2M-20cm-Red-3-5mm-Jack-to-Jack-Aux-Cable-Male-to/505072_32833465555.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.9.383e3c3dVjq9DY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_5016020_10059_10696_100031_5015320_5016120_10084_10083_5015420_10103_451_10618_452_10304_10307_10820_10821_10302,searchweb201603_55,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=9ba0b376-e66f-48d2-9ccd-ecc1e8794812-1&algo_pvid=9ba0b376-e66f-48d2-9ccd-ecc1e8794812&priceBeautifyAB=0">Aliexpress</a></p>
<h2 id="rii-mini-i8-mini-keyboard">Rii mini i8+ mini keyboard</h2>
<p>Price ~17 eur</p>
-<p>Wireless control over camera. You will also need this for wifi settings etc. (Recommended) This is one of the best mini keyboards I've tried.</p>
+<p>Wireless control over camera. You will also need this for wifi settings etc. (Recommended) This is one of the best mini keyboards I’ve tried.</p>
<p><strong>Buy</strong> <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Rii-mini-i8-Russian-English-Spanish-Hebrew-Version-Wireless-Backlit-Keyboard-with-Touchpad-for-PC-Smart/32450468690.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dKdqpVO">Aliexpress</a></p>
<p>Parts grand total ~200 eur</p>
<h1 id="d-printing">3d printing</h1>
-<p>While waiting for ordered parts lets 3d print the rest of the parts. I recommend printing with a solid 90% infill. Now it is pretty crucial that you have a good calibrated printer so that you don't over/under print. Some parts need to be very precise to work.</p>
-<p>You'll find all the 3d parts in the 3d folder.</p>
+<p>While waiting for ordered parts lets 3d print the rest of the parts. I recommend printing with a solid 90% infill. Now it is pretty crucial that you have a good calibrated printer so that you don’t over/under print. Some parts need to be very precise to work.</p>
+<p>You’ll find all the 3d parts in the 3d folder.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://github.com/rbckman/tarina/blob/master/3d/tarina-body.stl">body</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/rbckman/tarina/blob/master/3d/tarina-button-plate-bottom.stl">button-plate-bottom</a></li>
@@ -227,8 +224,8 @@
<li><a href="https://github.com/rbckman/tarina/blob/master/3d/tarina-screen-lid.stl">screen-lid</a></li>
</ul>
<h1 id="post-processing">Post processing</h1>
-<p>This is still a work in progress...</p>
-<p>So far I've come to this conclusion:</p>
+<p>This is still a work in progress…</p>
+<p>So far I’ve come to this conclusion:</p>
<ul>
<li>Put 3d printed parts together with screws.</li>
<li>Sand with sandpaper from rough to finest (from 120 to 400). I like to sand down all corners making them round.</li>
@@ -244,7 +241,7 @@
<h1 id="wiring">Wiring</h1>
<p><img src="wiring.png" alt="Tarina wiring diagram" /> <img src="tarina-build-13.jpg" alt="3d printed and painted, next up sanding and adding one more paint layer" /> <img src="tarina-build-04.jpg" alt="Fitting everything together" /> <img src="tarina-build-07.jpg" alt="Building" /> <img src="tarina-build-02.jpg" alt="Ready for screen" /> <img src="tarina-build-08.jpg" alt="MCP and buttons" /> <img src="tarina-build-11.jpg" alt="MCP and buttons" /> <img src="tarina-build-07.jpg" alt="Building" /> <img src="tarina-build-10.jpg" alt="Sound card ready to be soldered" /></p>
<h1 id="putting-it-together">Putting it together</h1>
-<p>Documentation on its way, if you're in a hurry feel free to drop a message in <a href="https://riot.im/app/#/room/#tarina:matrix.tarina.org">#tarina:matrix.tarina.org</a></p>
+<p>Documentation on its way, if you’re in a hurry feel free to drop a message in <a href="https://riot.im/app/#/room/#tarina:matrix.tarina.org">#tarina:matrix.tarina.org</a></p>
<h1 id="installing-software">Installing software</h1>
<p>Download latest <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/">Raspbian</a> and follow <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/README.md">install instructions</a>. <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/">Ssh into</a> Raspberry Pi and run:</p>
<pre><code>sudo raspi-config</code></pre>
@@ -254,15 +251,14 @@
<pre><code>git clone https://github.com/rbckman/tarina.git
cd tarina
sudo ./install.sh</code></pre>
-<p>You'r ready to rumble:</p>
+<p>You’r ready to rumble:</p>
<pre><code>python3 tarina.py</code></pre>
<p>Happy filming!</p>
-<div class="figure">
-<img src="tarina-leone.jpg" alt="Should be looking like this once finnished" />
-<p class="caption">Should be looking like this once finnished</p>
-</div>
+<figure>
+<img src="tarina-leone.jpg" alt="Should be looking like this once finnished" /><figcaption>Should be looking like this once finnished</figcaption>
+</figure>
<h1 id="tested-lenses">Tested lenses</h1>
-<p>Here is what I'm testing right now.</p>
+<p>Here is what I’m testing right now.</p>
<h2 id="yumiki-6-60mm-13-cs-lens-cctv-lens-ir-f1.6-manual-zoom-manual-iris">Yumiki 6-60mm 1/3" CS Lens CCTV Lens IR F1.6 Manual Zoom Manual Iris</h2>
<p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-60mm-1-3-CS-Lens-CCTV-Lens-IR-F1-6-Manual-Zoom-Manual-Iris-for/32793850795.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dmtk6IZ">Aliexpress</a></p>
<h2 id="camera-lens-2.8-12mm-varifocal">Camera Lens 2.8-12mm Varifocal</h2>
diff --git a/docs/tarina-manual.md b/docs/tarina-manual.md
@@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ The interface focuses on presenting the essential tools in film making in one me
Retake function
---------------
-After recording a take you'll see an image of the last frame of that take. Now, if you hit record again you'll move to the next shot in your movie. If you press retake you'll be going to a new take of the same shot in your movie. Now, your back at the live view and next time you'll hit record it will actually record. So, if you're browsing shots and a frame is present instead of the live view, hitting record will take you to the next new shot in your movie. When live view is present it will always start recording. So record and retake are multi functional buttons.
+After recording a take you'll see an image of the last frame of that take. Now, if you hit record again you'll move to the next shot in your movie. If you press retake you'll move to a new take of the same shot in your movie. Now, the live view is back and next time you'll hit record it will actually start recording. So, if you're browsing shots and a frame is present instead of the live view, hitting record will take you to the next new shot in your movie. Makes perfectly sense, right? When live view is present it will always start recording. So record and retake are multi functional buttons in that sense. Fiddle around with it, you'll totally get it and be blown away how simple it is.
Keys
====
@@ -71,7 +71,7 @@ Menus
A short explanation of all the settings and why they are where they are.
### Film, scene, shot and take
-This you don't see on other cameras because they don't care about what you're filming however this camera does and it wants to know where you are in your filmmaking process and help put it together. Of course this means that ***you*** have to know where you are in your filmmaking process. The idea of the workflow is: film only the essentials, check your montage on the spot and do a retake if you need to fix something rather than filming a bunch of things and fixing it later on another device. This will save ***you*** alot of time.
+This you don't see on other cameras because they don't care about what you're filming, however this camera does and it wants to know where you are in your filmmaking process and help put it together. Of course this means that ***you*** have to know where you are in your filmmaking process. The idea of the workflow is: film only the essentials, check your montage on the spot and do a retake if you need to fix something rather than filming a bunch of things and fixing it later on another device. This will save ***you*** alot of time.
### Dubbing
If you press enter while you've highlighted the film name or a scene you'll be entering dub settings menu. (ADD:d:1.0/o:1.0) this indicates the volume of the (d)ub to the previous (o)riginal mix. So, for example if you want the dub volume to be 50% of the previous audio, the settings would look like this (ADD:d:0.5/o:1.0). A good all-around background music volume level is only 10% so it would look like this (ADD:d:0.1/o:1.0). The other setting is fade in and out in seconds (in: 0.5) (out: 1.0) whould be half a second in and a second out. Now if you press enter while the ADD is highlighted you'll be dubbing. You can change the settings later if you come back to the menu. You can add up to 99 tracks!
diff --git a/docs/tarina-manual.pdf b/docs/tarina-manual.pdf
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